From Pamplona to a hilltop in Tiana near Barcelona

Good evening

Well, we have made it to Barcelona, actually a little town, Tiana, just north on the coast. From our bedroom window (our home away from home in the hills above Tiana---shot from the soccer fields) we can see downtown Barcelona... a zoo of turistas. Today, we took a day of "rest". Went to a kids soccer game down the hill and across the valley at the Tiana recreation play/pool. Fun to watch the 8 years (see photos) preparing for their later years on Barcelona's soccer time.

Our B and B in the center of photo

Future Barcelona team players--- 2032.

Oops!

Barcelona in the smoggy distance.

Well more about Barcelona later. Let's catchup with our wanderings. Let off in St. Jean Pied de Port, Atlantic Pyrennes.  We spent early last week in Pamplona after searching for our Hotel Navarra for an hour in busy Pamplona... What an adventure. We covered the same ground 4 times only to discover that the hotel as right where we began the search. Lest we appear to be "less that bright", Pamplona has lots of pedestrian only streets and it is a challenge to access a hotel. BUT,  alas, Leslie looked up and there it was! Nice little place in  the center of old town and lots within easy walking distance. Here are a few photos the " the path of the running of the bulls" (series of photos to the corrida).

Believe it or not, it actually all starts in this small parking lot at the bottom of the hill. Each morning, 30 bulls await the signal, the gates open and up the street the go.... Stomping and goring crazy runners along the way.

Up the street and passed the officials

Through the streets that today are quiet.

Into the corrida and crowds of thousands... As you can see the streets were quiet to day but July 8th-July 15th you can just image......

Mural at the Corrida de Toros, Pamplona honoring the runners.

Bronze memorial of runners in the pedestrian walkway. Beautiful bronze piece.




 Gene's 65th birthday dinner at Hemingway's old haunt "La Iruna" raising a glass with his "senorita" and a cup of Rioja with the "old man of the sea".

The big 65th with the best looking lady in the bar.

The boys at the bar...... This bronze is actually at the bar seat that Hemingway used to "hold court" and spend those "wild and crazy drinking nights while in Pamplona.  The walls are covered with amazing original photos of Ernest and his compadres partying the nights away.  To many people, he is still alive and well at La Iruna.

OFF TO RIOJA AND WINE COUNTRY

The next day we headed to the Rioja Alvesa (upper Rioja Valley near Laguardia) to visit wineries and see the area. It is much more than expected. In the valley (much like the Napa Valley in size but a bit bigger) there are 1800 wineries with 108 in the La Guardia area alone. Here are a few photos to give you "a taste".

Altar in a side chapel-- Church of Our Lady of Assumption @ Villaurelta

Beautify eyes on an amazing wall mosaic (1300's)

A Roman bridge along the way.

AND THE RIOJA VALLEY

Cantabrian Mountains

A village in the Rioja

The vines of tempranillo

100 year old vines

The Ysios Winery....Beautiful architecture

Leslie and the wine cart---- note the rearview mirror shot.

Streets of Laguardia, the heart of the Rioja

In the underground caves of the Carlos Pedro Viniperra wine cellar.
(over 50 wine cellar caves in Laguardia with four used today).

Clock in the town plaza.

Red peppers and other verduras

The fruit of the vine.... this was an amazing wine.

 And so we headed back to Pamplona and then off the next day to Zaragoza and east to Barcelona..... the next chapter in a few days. Hope all is well. Enjoy.

Into the Pyrennes and Spain

On the road again... kind of like that Willie Nelson song. We left the Dordogne and headed to points south stopped at Rocamador.... Beautiful mountainside (built into it) fortress city north of Toulouse. It is the home of the "Black Madonna" , a place of many miracles and visitation sight for pilgrims (1100 and beyond) heading south to Santiago de Compostella.  It was also a fortress used by the crusaders and later the French during 100 Years' War.

Rocamador

The facade

Black Madonna

Stained glass window

As you would expect, we have lots of photos but wanted to give you a flavor.

From here we drove AROUND Toulouse (5th largest city in France) and actually found the freeway to Pau and points south. The next day we drove to Lourdes and St. Jean Pied de Port via the backroads from Lourdes through the Atlantique Pyrennes, incredibly beautiful countryside. Took three hours to drive 80 miles. Here are a few photos. We believe the sheep and seeing Les' favorite car were the best experiences of the day. In the Basque villages in the Pyrennes, they drive the sheep from fields on one side of the village to the other in midafternoon so we got the opportunity to follow the sheep through the village.

Lourdes--- a very commercialized place but we did enjoy the silence in Bernadette's chapel.

Our furry guides through the village

Basque village of St. Jean Pied de Port and stopping place along the path to Santiago de Compostella.
This town used to be the major defense station of the French against the Spanish (1400-1940).  It was challenging even today to have a car with a French license plate. 

Yes, more sheep

The Pyrennes foothills outside of Lourdes

Leslie's dream car

 Well, it is time for settling in for the night after a great dinner. A toast to you all from Pamplona and the Hostal Navarra.

Yes and all for $10

A toast to you..... Best wishes from Les and Gene

Tomorrow we are off for Zaragoza and then four days in Barcelona.... Will update you about our experiences here in Pamplona and the Rioja wine country after we arrive in Barcelona. Enjoy and send emails. We love them.

The story of a tragedy

Good morning or evening. 
I will continue the story of our journey. Left off in Moncontour (photo below) where we met a wonderful English couple and stayed at their B and B. Next morning we traveled (Leslie and our Renault Clio---- great little car that gets 50 miles per gallon/diesel) through the French countryside (photos below) and saw miles and miles of farmers' fields.  Stopped by a river for lunch and got a photo of some beautiful flowers. 

St. John Maigny Church near Moncontour

Farmer's field

Lunch by the river

Les and our Clio (black with red plates)

A sad afternoon of remembrance

The afternoon turned somber when we visited Oradaur sur Glane just north of Limonges, France. This is the village where the German army (Das Reich SS Division) massacred all the townspeople (624 men, women and children) in retribution for the D-Day landings and actions of the Marquis (French resistance in the Limonges area. I have attached some photos of the village which has been left as it was (as memorial of remembrance) on July 10, 1944, the day the Germans murdered all inhabitants and burned the homes/stores/schools/church.  The townspeople were all herded to the town square; then the men taken to various locations (workshops and garages) and shot.  The women and children were taken to the church and were locked in. It was set afire and they were burned to death or shot trying to escape. While we were deeply impacted by this tragedy (seeing the museum and walking through the village), we realized that keeping the village as it was that day (June 10, 1944) has been critical.  It helps us remember what happened here was real and "can happen again" if we are not vigilant with our liberties, freedom and care for one another. If you have an opportunity I would suggest you Google "Oradaur sur Glane and read the story of this tragedy. 

Town from a distance

Town streets-- overhead wires were for the electric trolley

Town streets

A garage where men were shot.

Remembering the Binet family

Remembering the Descubes family

Church where women and children were murdered.

And our journey continued on to the Valley of the Dordogne. We arrived there on Monday, September 26th and just left this morning, Friday, September 30th. What a wonderful four days. Saw chateaus and castles from the 10th - 15th century. Below is Beynac and views (north and west) from Chateau Castelnaud. The latter was the home of Richard the Lion Hearted after the 2nd Crusade. We also had a change to see the beginning of fall colors in the Dordogne.  And yes, here is Les outside our little abode at Les Trios Collines. The pool is directly behind me and it has been 85-90 for the past week.

Beynac, one of tens of castles and chateaus

Fall colors

From Castelnaud to the north

From Castelnaud to the west

Miss Leslie @ our casita's patio door

The four wonderful days are memories and now we are in Pau (20 miles from Lourdes) on our way to St. Jean de Pied Port which is the beginning of the pilgrims trail (St. Juan Compostela) to Santiago de Compostela, Spain (500 mile  hike across northern Spain done by thousands+ each year). Stay tuned. We will update you as we venture into Northern Spain and points east across the Pyrennes.